May 29, 2014

The road to Cuiaba` - Part I



With a final plate of lentils under my belt, a freshly baked loaf of bread under my arm and a warm farewell and mutual thankyou with Ghila, I road away from Lago Puelo three days ago. The past few weeks have been a rewarding experience and one I've learnt a lot from. I'm now comfortably on the road to Cuiaba` where Australia meets Chile in their, or our, first match of the World Cup finals in 16 days time. I'm travelling some 4,600km's in a north east direction to the Mato Grosso region of Brazil as I've just secured tickets to Australia's three group games and a chance to spend time with my cousins Rob, Steve, Laura, their partners and my Uncle John amongst other friends and later on, Luca and Amy. Some familiar faces and party atmosphere await. 

Suprisingly, there hasn't been too much hype in the past few weeks around here, a lot of Argentinians I speak to are either indifferent or hold reserved expectations. The last few days on the road however, when chatting to someone at the traffic lights or a gas station attendant who ask me where I'm heading, I now say I'm heading to Brazil for 'el mundial' which gets a smile and the excitement is starting to build. From many years ago, I knew if I was ever to get to a World Cup in my lifetime, Brazil would be the one, perhaps the most football nation of them all and renown for putting on a party, where else would I want to be heading right now?

So here I am with a new purpose and enthusiasm to my riding, knowing in the back of my mind that the end of these endless numbered days is nigh and a great opportunity is approaching to celebrate a global culture coming together. From my recent reading, we don't stand much of a chance to impress and should be lucky to salvage a point from some observers, however I'm hopeful that if the inexperienced squad finds that resoluteness from a generation ago, we should do just fine and keep some pride intact. Here's to an optimistic view and trust in the current coach. 





                 No end to La Pampa from above

I spent my first day back on the road battling the winds and farewelling the snowy mountains which disappeared when arriving in the wine, apple and dinosaur roaming province of Neuquen. I stopped to camp above a lake, hoping I would be escaping the cold shortly. Yesterday I crossed into La Pampa region and the quintessential Argentinian outback of fertile plains and vast open spaces. As the sun was setting I was miles from anywhere, a sign indicated a town 100km's away with a symbol for gas and camping so I decided to ride through the darkness to rest there for the night. I arrived at what was barely a town, Lihue Calel doesn't even show itself on my map, there was petrol, and a sign saying Restaurant and Motel. Nothing else. In I went to get away from the chill and didn't leave for several hours. As soon as I approached the fire to warm my hands I got chatting to a friendly man, Roberto and his partner from the closest city and before I knew it we were sharing bottles of beer and I was convinced to order the roasted beef, they wouldn't let me pass through La Pampa without trying its prized beef. We got chatting about the usual topics, where I'd been, what I thought of particular places, people, dangers, dismissing stereotypes, life in Australia and advice on where i was heading, east of the Rio Parana. The owner joined in the chat before Roberto insisted he pay for my meal and drinks before leaving with plans to meet again and I continued the chat with a table of cattle farmers who had all the economic questions for me and ideas on farming kangaroos here. I finished the night camping by the lonesome tree and climbed the hill this morning to get a better view of the endless landscape around me.
 
Today I rode for a short few hours in a straight line with the sun in my face to the crossroads town of Santa Rosa. It's great to be back on the road.